Since her early childhood in Colombo, where her mother cooked in local restaurants, Marshi Gnanasooriya has been immersed in the world of cooking.
“Mum would start early in the morning, preparing and packing food, and it was our job before school to deliver the food to the restaurants,” Gnanasooriya tells Broadsheet. “As we got a little older, we would help her with preparation – I never thought I’d become a chef (I studied to be a French translator), but I guess the passion was already inside me.”
Her love for food, flavours, and family is felt throughout Marshi’s Kitchen, which she co-owns with her husband, Steven Smith. “I love cooking, but I’m not at all in her league; I don’t think anyone could teach you the natural balance of flavours she’s got,” says Smith.
Menu favourites include the avo toast with house-made beetroot hummus and almond dukkah, the red lentil curry bowl and the lamb roti and prawn scramble with chilli oil and curry lime butter – inspired by Gnanasooriya’s 12-year-old son. “My son cooks some weekends for us, and he loves making scrambled eggs with curry powder, so I stole the idea from him.”
Gnanasooriya showcases local produce with bread and pastries from Prove, and vino from SA family-owned wineries like Paracombe and Golding. On Friday and Saturday nights, the menu changes to feature more of Gnanasooriya’s traditional Sri Lankan heritage – with dishes like Jaffna lamb curry with mint cucumber yoghurt, and barramundi with creamy coconut gravy.
“In Sri Lanka, we eat more chicken and egg protein than red meat, and all the rice and coconut-based dishes are dairy- and gluten-free,” says Gnanasooriya. “I thought it’d be perfect to create a menu of that style here, too, so people can choose to add their protein. That way, those with dietary requirements can come in and appreciate the simplicity and ease of it.”
After leaving Sri Lanka in 2007, Gnanasooriya worked in Queensland and in Melbourne where she was the chef at Fourth Chapter, Trei and Sardi before moving to Adelaide five years ago.
Here, she spent time in the kitchen at Stone's Throw, Fine and Fettle, Community, Luigi’s, but after feeling overlooked in “such a male-dominated industry” decided to strike out on her own, taking over the former Locavore space.
“When Mum’s over from Sri Lanka, she helps me sometimes in the kitchen. I never thought I’d have my own restaurant, so it’s great to have her here,” she says.
There’s ample natural light from the large windows and the spectacular glass rooftop, and the space feels homey with a cosy fireplace, hanging planter baskets and pendant lights, as well as outdoor and balcony bar seating.
Mon to Thurs 7.30am–3pm
Fri & Sat 7.30am–3pm, 6pm–9pm
Sun 7.30am–3pm
